Estimated Read Time: 6 mins | July 28, 2025

Quick overview: A level slate bed is the foundation of every true roll. Whether you’re installing a three-piece slate or wrestling with a colossal one-piece slab, pros rely on precision tools, stable shims, and methodical steps to nail flatness within thousandths of an inch. Here’s how they do it.

Tools & Materials Used by Professional Installers

• Precision levels:
  • 12–18″ machinist’s level (0.005″/ft sensitivity)
  • 4′ carpenter’s level or straightedge for span
  • Optional master level (0.0005″/ft) for ultra-fine work
• Shimming materials:
  • Composite or plastic shims, folded playing/card stock
  • Rubber or hardwood leg shims for uneven floors
• Seam fillers:
  • Pure beeswax (melt-in, easy to remove)
  • Slate cement (Bondo) for permanent fills, if preferred
  • Propane torch, metal scraper for trimming wax
• Additional kit:
  • Rubber mallet, wrench/screwdriver
  • Straightedge or steel ruler
  • 1″×2″×3″ precision block
  • Wooden dowels/toothpicks for loose screw holes
  • Clean cloth and cue ball/marble for roll tests

Step-by-Step Professional Leveling Process

1. Frame pre-level:

   Assemble and tighten the frame. Place the machinist’s level on a long straightedge, then use leg levelers or floor shims to eliminate side-to-side twist and end-to-end tilt.

2. Slate positioning:

   Set the center slate first, then head and foot pieces. Align seams over cross-supports and ensure equal overhang on both sides. Insert a couple of loose screws to hold position.

3. Shim & level each section:

   Start with the center slab: add thin shims under low corners until it’s perfectly level. Move to end slates, shimming until each piece is flush with its neighbor. Roll a ball across every seam—if it rolls straight and doesn’t hop, you’re on track.

4. Secure & re-check:

   Tighten slate screws from outside in, then re-test level and ball roll. If tightening dips the slate, back out screws, add shims, and retry until the bed stays dead flat.

5. Fill seams & holes:

   Warm seams with a torch, drip in beeswax, re-melt for penetration, then scrape flush. For a permanent fill, use slate cement and sand smooth.

6. Final checks & cloth:

   Hand-feel seams, roll a ball across the entire bed, even use a plate-glass sheet for ultra-sensitive tests. Once satisfied, install the felt carefully—watch for tension that could upset your level.

Multi-Slate vs. Single-Slate Table Considerations

Three-piece slate dominates for its modular adjustability. You can shim each section independently, then hide seams perfectly with beeswax. It’s the installer’s favorite for 7ft–9ft tables.

One-piece slate arrives as a beastly slab—no seams to hide but no sections to shim. It demands a rock-solid frame and often built-in jacking points or wedges (some pro tables offer 22-point leveling systems). When done right, a single slab plays as true as any three-piece set, but the setup is more frame-centric.